CHEF'S DESK

Executive Chef: 
John McAllister
Certified Executive Chef

July

Not so fast, Marco Polo

It is a well-known story that the Venetian merchant Marco Polo brought back pasta from his journeys in China. Another version states that Polo discovery was actually a rediscovery of a food that was once popular in Italy in Etruscan and Roman times, and there is some evidence of a Graeco-Roman noodle made from the same durum wheat as modern pasta called "lagane" (origin of the modern word for lasagna). However, this food, first mentioned in the 1st century AD was not boiled like pasta. The first certain record of noodles cooked by boiling is in the Jerusalem Talmud, written in Aramaic in the 5th century AD. The word used for the noodles was itriyah.

The oldest form of noodles, however, has been unearthed under ten feet of sediment in an overturned, sealed bowl at an archaeological site in northwestern China. Unlike our durum wheat and semolina pasta, these noodles were made from 2 varieties of millet, which was highly cultivated throughout Chinese history, dating back 7000 years. While this gives evidence of the long Chinese history, the pasta we have eaten throughout Western history still must have been introduced into Western diets—with apologies to Signore Polo-- through the Arabs. In fact, the Arab invasion of the 8th century heavily influenced the regional cuisine and is the most accepted theory for the introduction of pasta in Italy. The dried noodle-like product they introduced to Sicily is most likely the origins of dried pasta and was being produced in great quantities in Palermo at this time.

In case you were wondering, there are around 350 different types of pasta, and probably approximately four times as many names for them. They can be divided into few groups: long shape, flat pasta strands, short shaped and tubular pasta, small pasta for soup, stuffed shape, Asian type. Certain shapes of pasta and sizes are used for specific purposes, while others can be used in several different manners. Italians also express their national and regional differences through the different shapes of their pasta, and historically each village had its own shape, much like a coat of arms for that area.

June

In a recent conversation with a member, the subject of curry came up, in reference to the ubiquitous curry powder commonly found on supermarket shelves.

While a combination of seasoning, curry powder is all but unknown in India. They prefer to grind the seasoning they need fresh and never use a “one size fits all blend”; the flavoring is specific to the dish they are preparing. The yellow of curry powder comes from turmeric (same as in yellow mustard) and not the curry leaf, which acts as an appetite stimulant as well as a medicinal. The term curry itself isn't really used in India, except as a term appropriated by the British to generically categorize a large set of different soup or stew preparations ubiquitous in India and nearly always containing ginger, garlic, onion, turmeric, chili, and oil (except in communities which eat neither onion or garlic, of course) as well as fenugreek and cloves.

Of course curry powder has its uses in Western interpretations, and its mild pleasant flavor contributes nicely to dishes ranging from tandoori chicken to the famous mulligatawny soup. In the west, the type of curries popularized by restaurants now usually characterizes curry. A rather broad definition would be: "A dish made with dried and fresh spices cooked in oil with a sauce made from pureed onions, garlic and ginger. The variety of spices used can be extensive but the commonest are chili, cumin, coriander and turmeric. Other common ingredients are yogurt, cream, cucumbers and ground nuts."

May

May is always an exciting month around the club—especially this year—and the culinary team is ready to tackle not only the myriad events that we have planned, but also to begin working with some of the wonderful foods that become available to us: fresh pencil asparagus, woodland morels, copper river salmon, soft shell crabs…the list goes on and on. Some will have a very short season, and others will be with us for a good part of the summer.

It is also a great time of the year for me to challenge our apprentices, as we kick into the season in gear. If you ever wonder what the value of our program is to the member, just think about the events of the next few months: Mother’s Day, Pool Opening, Member-Guest, Memorial Day, Fourth of July, plus many private events as well as large increases in our traffic. Our student’s relish the opportunities to not only meet the hectic goals, but to do so with enthusiasm and professionalism, with the ultimate results going to our members. I remember arriving here at the club 4 years ago to a meager kitchen staff and being told, “there is no help out this way”. Well, that picture is certainly different today, and that is the value of the apprenticeship program to the club—we grow our own labor.

As always, your happiness is our business, so I encourage you to contact me with your suggestions, criticisms and comments as to how we can better meet and exceed your expectations. I speak with many members quite regularly, and I can tell you that this is quite invaluable in selecting menu items, improving services and providing personalized attention. For instance, I hope you will come on out for our Summer Sunday evening dinners on the veranda—casual, comfortable and a great way to end the weekend. Enjoy!