CHEF'S DESK

Executive Chef: 
John McAllister
Certified Executive Chef

September

The culinary arts. This phrase is often repeated and typically taken at face value. But, really, is it art? Painting is art, of course, as well as creative writing, architecture, and music... But cooking? I think not. There are creative aspects of the discipline to be sure. But the far more accurate description would be a craft. Cooking is a craft. I know that a lot of “foodie” types will bluster at this, and even a few well meaning, if not self-deluded chefs as well. But the result of physical skills that are consistently measurable and comparable from one chef or restaurant to the next is in fact, a craft.

Now I have an artistic nature, so perhaps I am at odds with myself here. I paint in oils, play classical guitar and enjoy reading as well as writing. These are clearly artistic pursuits for the most part and certainly the sensitivity I employ to these must inevitably bleed over into my work. And it does, because I can certainly admire the beauty of foods in their natural states as well as after they have been manipulated and arranged on plates. I can fuss over the different shapes and colors that will most pleasing to the eye, as well as to the taste. But the skills required being able to do this I have learned by many years of repetitive behavior; honing these tasks so that they become second nature, and not just a single statement. Perhaps my artistic side helps me realize the end results favorably—perhaps. I know a many highly skilled chefs that are true technicians of culinary skill who have absolutely no inclination to the arts at all.

A recipe is a craft. If we put it on the menu, the expectation is that it will be made the same way over and over. Art is a little different in that you are typically taking some raw materials and bringing them together in some unique fashion. Nice, but if the salad dressing changes every time it is ordered I can tell you the pronouncement will not be ‘but it’s art!’ For me the trick is making that artistic statement within a craft discipline and I hope I am succeeding more often than not.

August

It certainly comes as no surprise to anyone that prices across the board have gone up on just about everything we buy, and the food industry is definitely not an exception. Blame it on what you will: the growing middle classes of China and India, Ethanol production, energy costs and even commodity speculators all play a role as well as many other market and natural forces. But trying to understand root causes still does not diminish the results—it all costs more.

The typical American family spends 10% of its income on food, compared with 15% for our European counterparts. But with price increases just in the last year on basic commodity items such as wheat (94%), corn (100%) and soybeans (84%), the days of cheap food may well be over forever.

So how does all of this relate to your club? Well, from my perspective, regardless of the challenge, there is always an opportunity to succeed. I am engaging more local and regional suppliers, as they become available, to provide fresh items with less of a carbon footprint. I have for some time now bought directly from several farms and fisheries around the country that ship FedEx, meaning there is less expense in the over all shipping costs, if you view it in the big picture.

We have also begun planting in earnest our own herb garden, which I am hoping to expand into a few homegrown vegetables for our apprentices to nurture and learn from. All in all, the goal is to continue to sources the very best ingredients that I can for our membership. I have taken this approach from day one, so the good news is the upward expenses do not affect us as much as some other establishments. We have been paying for top of the line products all along, so while the increase is there, it is just not as severe. There is not much I can do to stave off rising expenses, but at least I can ensure that what you do pay for is the best available and represents a true value for dollar—and you can’t put a price on that.

July

At the start of the year I told you about the chef's apprenticeship program that has been inaugurated here at the club. Well, after a lot of planning and getting the gears to turn in the correct motion, I am pleased to say our first four official apprentices have been accepted into the program as of June. So let this serve as my welcome to Duck Kim, Grayson Glascock, Brad McKay and Daniel Pope.

For the next 2 to 3 years, these gentlemen (and we will be adding more names as time goes on) will be exposed to all the facets of the culinary world as well as kitchen management. By the end of their journey, they will all be capable butchers, garde mangers, sauciers, bakers, purchasing agents and much more. Together and individually they will be presented challenges that will cause them to stretch their abilities further than they ever knew was possible. More than this, they will learn the true meaning of teamwork and how to fix the problems and not to fix the blame while they toil in real world conditions. Periodically we will offer their labors in the form of specialty events to the members, so that they can earn thoughtful critiques and gain insights to the process of becoming a chef. Truth be told, I envy the road that lies ahead for them, but I am very proud to help with the journey.

I am confident that the value of this venture is not lost on the membership, as it is extraordinarily beneficial to any business to have dedicated individuals eager to please, especially in this challenging field. We are one of only 2 locations in the entire state to be sanctioned to operate an apprenticeship program, truly another jewel in the crown of our small, but mighty club. If the opportunity arises, I hope you will have words of encouragement for our charges.

What an exciting time to be part of the Old North State Club!

May: The French Paradox?

We have all heard of this: the alleged good health in a group of people that typically eat a diet high in fats and carbohydrates. But recent studies have shown that the phenomenon should be more correctly labeled the Mediterranean paradox.

The research is known as the seven-country study, and started out to find out why people on the isles of Crete and Sardinia were living longer and with little heart disease despite a high fat diet. What was discovered was that a major part of their diet included the drinking of red wine.

A closer examination of the red wines produced in this area found that they were richer in Procyanidins than many other similar wines from other areas. This same traits were discovered in the wines of southwest France, where the population enjoys overall good health. So the paradox has little to do with France itself, as heart disease and other diet related illnesses have proved to be regional. In fact Alsace, where the majority of the wines are white, has the highest rate of heart trouble in the country.

Procyanidins are part of the larger chemical group known as polyphenols, which are powerful antioxidants. If you are a red wine drinker you will also recognize another polyphenols -- tannin that dryish, astringent taste omnipresent in these wines. Now white wines have these same compositions, but while red wines are the fermented juice of the grapes with skin and seed intact, white wine is the juice only. So the longer the time of the fermentation with the seeds, the more extraction of these polyphenols that you have, and thus higher levels of polyphenols.

So my recommendation is to sit back with your favorite Bordeaux (proyanidins), a creamy rougefort cheese (penicillin) and a loaf of French bread (yeast) for a most delicious medicine cabinet!

April

Oh How Sweet It Is.

"The sweet smell of success", "a sweet deal", "sweeten the pot" and so on. How many familiar phrases such as these do we use to define the good things in our lives? What is it about sugar, in all of its forms, that makes us want to associate in this way? Everyone has heard of a "sweet-tooth" and of course we know that this is a figure of speech, but still the lovely images persist. Then again, "the bitter end,' "a bitter pill,' "bitter winter chill" quite a different impression, typically harsh or sad, and yet "the pair sweet and bitter" form a partnership that help define the way we eat.

The clues lie in our basic physiology, more specifically our brain's requirement for nutrition and our bodies need for protection. On an instinctual level we have two strong biases: one positive and one negative. The negative is generally represented as the taste of bitter, which perhaps is a defensive measure against some of the toxins that plants can produce. Many times pregnant women will become particularly sensitive to bitter tastes, say in broccoli, which may be natures way of protecting the fetus. And even though we have learned to overcome this weapon in many cases through cooking or extractions in the case of some drug making, we can simplistically see bitter as a protective alarm for our body.

Sweet, on the other hand, is our positive taste impulse. We can even sense it in anticipation of dessert or a piece of fruit. It sates us in bread and even the meat we consume. We almost long for it, and with good reason; humans are big-brained omnivores, and big brains require lots of glucose.

On average our brain represents 2% of our total body weight, but consumes a whopping 18% of our energy intake and here is the kicker: that fuel must be in the form of a carbohydrate (sorry, low-carb dieters), hence the desire for glucose.

So when you go in blissful anticipation for that piece of cake, remember to tell everyone that what you are really doing is feeding your brain! Now if it were only that easy; well wouldn't that be sweet?

March

Let me start this month with congratulations to our Sous Chef Ken Andrews who successfully passed his exam for Certified Executive Chef. Reaching the CEC level is regarded industry wide as recognition that an individual has reached a rarefied level of technical knowledge and practical ability. Welcome to our club, Ken!

In a conversation with a member recently, I was asked how I could possibly know how to cook so many different styles of cuisine's. This was in reference to one of our specialty nights, where we feature authentic representations of different countries. It was interesting because the member just assumed that we simply bought prepared items and served them. He was astonished to find that we actually prepare from scratch.

To tell you the truth, it never occurred to me that anyone would take this perspective. From my side of the ball, I know that we prepare about 95% of everything on our menus. We butcher the meat and fish, make the stocks for soup and sauce, mix, proof and bake the French rolls and pizza shells, cut all the vegetables everything from scratch. It's the only way I know how to run a kitchen and I would not do it any other way.

Of course, this can lead to some variations. A dish prepared with heirloom tomatoes in their peak season around August will taste vastly different if prepared with hot house tomatoes in January that sort of thing. If that sounds odd, just think of wine: the exact same grapes on the same vines in the same place produce different tastes from year to year because of soil, wind and other conditions. And of course we all know how much better corn is later in the summer as opposed to early. That is one of the reasons we change the menu so often. Only commercially prepared foods have the same taste and consistency at all times, and that would never do.

As to the aforementioned multiple cuisine issue: cooking, as a profession is no different from other disciplines. A mechanic, for instance, typically can repair most anything on a car, whether it is brakes, drive train, fuel system, etc. And who would be comfortable going to a dentist who did not know all of the facets of dental care? Like anything else, cuisine, any cuisine, can be learned if you understand the basic tenants of cooking. My job as a professional chef affords me the luxury of exploring the world when it comes to food, and that, to borrow a famous title, is the joy of cooking.

February 2008

There are very few subjects that cross my desk that are more misunderstood than the relative nutritional value of wheat. The problem lies in the fuzzy information that is generally offered to the public, and the confusion that ensues.

I love the taste of whole-wheat flavored bread, regardless of any erroneous claims to health benefits that may be offered. You see, what is typically referred to, as "wheat bread" is the loaves with the darker brown color than what we call white bread. In fact, they are both made with wheat. Wheat is just another way of saying white flour. It is the whole wheat, with the high-fiber, nutrient rich bran attached, which brings the goods to the table. But what if the label says 'made with whole wheat'? Well, the labeling laws says that if as little as 2% of the total flour weight is whole wheat, then it is okay to put it on the label. As with everything, read the fine print! So what about the color? You just cannot get that brownish tan hue with white flour, can you? The only trick here is that just enough whole-wheat flour (and in some cases molasses) is added to color the dough. That's all.

Now if the label says made with 100% whole wheat, then you are in the clear. Please note that there are commercial brands of bread with labels that read “100% wheat flour. It needs to say whole wheat. In fact, look for breads that provide 2 grams of fiber per slice to be sure you are getting bread made with the whole bran and all the intrinsic positives this brings. But here is the stunner: wheat is not the nutritional dynamo that you might think it is. The fact is a slice of cheese has much more protein, potassium, riboflavin, vitamin D and other vitamins than a slice of whole wheat bread. Bread is a foundation for a diet, but it is the fruit, vegetable and proteins you consume that provide the real value.

Hey, but as long as we are in the neighborhood, what about that regular old white flour that is a staple in every kitchen? First things first: white flour is not all that evil. While it is true that the bleaching process removes many vitamins from the wheat, in the 1940s the Food and Drug Administration mandated that every all-purpose flour be "enriched," so small amounts of iron, niacin, thiamin and riboflavin are added, as well as folic acid, a member of the vitamin B complex. Flour that is bleached naturally (with oxygen) as it ages is labeled "unbleached," and you will notice that it is a little grayer looking than the chemically (chlorine) treated flour that is labeled "bleached." Bleached flour has less protein than unbleached, but is nutritionally the same, and not that far behind whole-wheat. Bleached is best for piecrusts, cookies, quick breads, pancakes and waffles. Use unbleached flour for yeast breads, Danish pastry, puff pastry, strudel, Yorkshire pudding, eclairs, cream puffs and popovers.

January 2008

Did you know that January is "National dried plum breakfast" month? Makes you wonder who comes up with this stuff, doesn't it? Anyway, now that the fruits and vegetables of the summer and late fall harvests are a faded memory, it's a perfect time to celebrate the winter crop. And how rich it is! The varied squashes, a riot of beets and crucifers such as cabbage and Brussels sprouts, sun chokes the list goes on and on of seasonal tastes and we will feature them all at the club in one form or another. But there are two flavors that I always tend to think of when the mercury is dipping that you might find surprising garlic and ginger.

I know that most people do not associate these tastes with the seasons, and tend to think of them more along the lines of their uses in particular cuisine's. But lets look at it a little closer. Garlic, for example, is well known for its healing properties. We hear about it discussed with regard to impact on heart disease, cancer and even lowering cholesterol. But on a more common level, garlic is amazingly effective in fighting viruses such as the ever-problematic common cold, the other unwanted visitor many of us receive in January (along with Holiday bills)!

Ginger has the heat in it to feel quite warm when going down, and is soothing to sore throats and upset tummies. And bonus ginger is an anti-inflammatory, useful for those aching joints. Probably why many a Grandma prescribes a little ginger tea or ale when you don't feel so well.

How great that two wonderful seasoning components not only taste sublime but also are also so useful to your general well being, can be incorporated into so many dishes. Just remember a few guidelines: with garlic, the finer you chop it, the stronger it is. So if you looking for mild garlic flavor, leave the cloves larger. In fact, take a whole head, cut the top off and smear with olive oil and a sprinkle of kosher salt; wrap in foil and roast until soft. When you remove it from the oven, hold it by the bottom and squeeze the roasted garlic right out of the leaves. It will be heavenly sweet and smeared on a little French bread, nothing short of sensational. A great tip for peeling ginger use a plain old soup or teaspoon. This is the most effective way to get in and out of all those little bumps. The edge of the spoon will peel the skin right off. Cut the amount of ginger you need, and store the rest of what is peeled in some brandy or sherry for another day.

December 2007

It is with a great deal of pride that I announce the formation of the Apprentice Chef Program at The Old North State Club. Under the umbrella of the American Culinary Federation Foundation, students will embark on a two-year journey that combines on the job training with formal education. During this time, the prospective culinarians will be exposed to all aspects of the kitchen, from vegetable peeling through ice carving. They will have logged over 4000 working hours and completed 12 intensive classes while maintaining a log of their progress, culminating with certification as a cook by the ACF. I am confident that this project will yield tangible results that will further enhance the club experience for our members and their guests.

We see so much in the media these days about celebrity chefs, and training through a culinary school has become a sought after goal for many. But not everyone can afford the tuition frequently topping sixty-thousand dollars for a two-year degree-and the vast majority of cooks in the trade have never been near a culinary school. Apprenticeship is the oldest, and many believe, the most effective education possible.

I served my apprenticeship from 1969-1973 under European task master chefs. It wasn't easy, but I came away with a valuable education and ability to cope with real world circumstances. Coming full circle, I was the chair for the apprenticeship program of the Charlotte chapter of the ACF from 1992-1997. In fact our Sous Chef, Ken Andrews, is a product of that program. Today, apprenticeship programs can be found all over the country in places such as The Cloister, The Balsams, The Greenbrier and the Houston Country Club, to name a few, as well as in ACF chapters in almost every state.

So what does this mean for the club? Well, basically it means that we will be populating the kitchen with enthusiastic, passionate and dedicated individuals learning precise fundamentals while growing their abilities focused on providing the very best to our members. Their efforts, under the watchful eyes of our chefs, will be profound, I am sure.

Please feel free to contact me at any time if you are curious to learn more about this worthwhile endeavor.